Seven Days in Antibes: Why the French Riviera's Hidden Gem Beat Our Expectations

Seven Days in Antibes: Why the French Riviera's Hidden Gem Beat Our Expectations

After a whirlwind month ping-ponging between Southampton, London, and Paris, we needed a place to catch our breath. Antibes, nestled between the glitz of Cannes and the crowds of Nice, promised exactly that. What we discovered was a coastal town that perfectly embodies everything we love about slow travel in France.

Why We Chose Antibes Over Nice or Cannes

When planning our French Riviera itinerary, most people assume you go straight to Nice or Cannes. We almost did. But after researching family-friendly destinations on the Côte d'Azur, Antibes kept appearing as the locals' favorite.

The deciding factors:

  • Authentic old town without tourist traps
  • Walking-friendly streets perfect for kids
  • Lower accommodation costs compared to neighboring cities
  • Daily markets for fresh food and cultural immersion
  • Fewer crowds than major Riviera destinations

Looking back, it was the perfect choice for our family's first taste of the Mediterranean lifestyle.

Getting to Antibes: The Epic Train Journey %%fas-fa-train%%

Our journey from Paris involved three trains and nearly eight hours of travel with three young children. Not our smoothest travel day, but definitely memorable.

Route Breakdown:

  • TGV Paris to Nîmes: High-speed comfort (3.5 hours)
  • Regional train Nîmes to Marseille: Classic European rail experience
  • Local train Marseille to Antibes: Coastal views as we approached

The girls were absolute champions during the long travel day. By the time we spotted the Mediterranean coastline outside our train window, we were all ready for some serious relaxation.

Pro tip: Book TGV reservations in advance when traveling with Eurail passes to avoid our last-minute scrambling experience.

Our Antibes Accommodation Experience %%fas-fa-bed%%

We stayed in a charming apartment in the old town, complete with a stunning terrace overlooking the Mediterranean. The location was perfect—walking distance to markets, restaurants, and the harbor.

What We Loved:

  • Private terrace with sea views
  • Central old town location
  • Walking distance to everything
  • Authentic French apartment feel

The Challenge:

  • Washing machine flooding incident (more on that below)

The accommodation gave us exactly what we needed: space to spread out, a kitchen for simple meals, and that terrace where Lindsay and I could unwind with evening drinks while the girls played nearby.

The Great Laundry Disaster of 2022 %%fas-fa-times-red%%

Day two brought unexpected drama. We started our first load of laundry, desperately needed after weeks of living out of backpacks, when neighbors came pounding on our door. Our washing machine had apparently flooded the entire lobby and electrical panel downstairs.

The Timeline:

  • Day 1: Arrive, start laundry, flood lobby
  • Day 2: Handyman determines pipe issue, not machine
  • Days 3-4: Hand washing in the bathtub
  • Remainder of stay: Creative laundry solutions

This is exactly the kind of experience that teaches you flexibility in long-term family travel. When you're living out of backpacks and your laundry plan fails, you adapt. The girls thought hand-washing clothes in the bathtub was hilarious, and we got our first lesson in French plumbing bureaucracy.

Daily Life in Antibes: Markets, Meals, and Mediterranean Moments

Morning Market Adventures %%fas-fa-shopping-basket%%

Every morning, the Provençal market came alive in the old town. This wasn't a tourist attraction—this was real life. Local vendors selling fresh produce, flowers, and regional specialties.

Market Highlights:

  • Fresh baguettes (essential for authentic French experience)
  • Local cheeses and olives
  • Seasonal fruits and vegetables
  • Traditional crafts and souvenirs

Cora and I made morning market runs our special tradition. She'd practice her few French words while I attempted to navigate vendor interactions with pointing and smiling.

Dining Discoveries %%fas-fa-utensils%%

Antibes surprised us with its culinary diversity. While we expected traditional French cuisine, we found international options that kept our picky eaters happy.

Memorable Meals:

Restaurant Cuisine Kid-Friendly Rating Price Range
Moonshine BBQ American-style BBQ %%fas-fa-star-yellow%%%%fas-fa-star-yellow%%%%fas-fa-star-yellow%%%%fas-fa-star-yellow%% €€€
Local Pizza Place Italian %%fas-fa-star-yellow%%%%fas-fa-star-yellow%%%%fas-fa-star-yellow%% €€
Market Vendors French/Local %%fas-fa-star-yellow%%%%fas-fa-star-yellow%%%%fas-fa-star-yellow%%%%fas-fa-star-yellow%%

Cost note: Antibes isn't cheap, but it's more affordable than Cannes or Monaco for families.

The Anti-Car Paradise %%fas-fa-walking%%

One of Antibes' biggest advantages for families with young children is the pedestrian-friendly old town. Most streets are walking-only, which meant:

  • No constant worry about traffic
  • Easy stroller navigation
  • Kids could explore safely
  • Everything within walking distance

This car-free environment let us relax in a way we hadn't since leaving home. The girls could run ahead on cobblestone streets without us panicking about vehicles.

What We Actually Did (Spoiler: We Relaxed)

After a month of intense sightseeing, our Antibes week was intentionally low-key. Sometimes the best family travel experiences happen when you're not trying to see everything.

Daily Routine That Worked:

  • Morning: Market visit or beach walk
  • Midday: Rest time in the apartment
  • Afternoon: Explore different neighborhoods
  • Evening: Dinner out or terrace time

Unexpected Highlights:

  • Wedding celebration: Stumbled upon a traditional French wedding procession
  • Emergency response: Witnessed firefighters rescuing a dog from a locked apartment
  • Gelato research: Conducted thorough investigation of local ice cream quality
  • Sunset terrace sessions: Our nightly ritual of adult conversation and kids' iPad time

The Slow Travel Revelation

Antibes taught us something crucial about sustainable family travel. We didn't visit a single major tourist attraction. We didn't check any items off a must-see list. Instead, we lived like temporary locals.

What Slow Travel Gave Us:

  • Time to process our previous month of intense travel
  • Opportunity to establish routines with the girls
  • Space for relationship conversations on that terrace
  • Energy for the month ahead in Italy

This wasn't "proper" travel according to some people's standards. But watching our girls confidently navigate French markets, seeing them adapt to a different pace of life, and feeling genuinely rested for the first time in weeks—that felt pretty proper to us.

Practical Antibes Information for Families

Getting Around %%fas-fa-map-marker-alt%%

  • Old town: Completely walkable
  • Beaches: 10-minute walk from center
  • Train station: 15-minute walk or short bus ride
  • Nice airport: 30-minute drive

Family-Friendly Features:

  • %%fas-fa-check-green%% Pedestrian-only streets in old town
  • %%fas-fa-check-green%% Daily markets for fresh food
  • %%fas-fa-check-green%% Multiple playgrounds (though some were inexplicably closed)
  • %%fas-fa-check-green%% Beach access for coastal fun
  • %%fas-fa-times-red%% Limited organized kids' activities

Budget Considerations:

  • Accommodation: €100-200/night for family apartment
  • Meals: €15-25/person for dinner, €8-12 for lunch
  • Groceries: Similar to US prices
  • Activities: Mostly free (beaches, markets, walking)

Our Antibes Verdict %%fas-fa-star-yellow%%

Overall Rating: 4.5/5 stars for families seeking authentic French Riviera experience

Perfect for:

  • Families wanting to slow down
  • Parents seeking authentic local life
  • Kids who enjoy market exploration
  • Travelers avoiding major tourist crowds

Skip if:

  • You need organized activities for children
  • You prefer luxury resort amenities
  • You want maximum sightseeing efficiency
  • You're on a tight budget

Looking Ahead: Italy Awaits

As we packed our lives back into suitcases for the journey to Genoa, we reflected on what Antibes had given us. It wasn't dramatic landscapes or impressive monuments. It was the gift of normalcy in an extraordinary setting.

Our girls learned that travel doesn't always mean rushing between attractions. Sometimes it means buying bread from the same baker three days in a row, or finding the perfect spot on a terrace to watch the sunset. These are the lessons that will serve them well as we continue this worldschooling adventure.

Coming Next: Our Italian month begins in Genoa, where we'll discover yet another approach to European family travel. From whale watching to pirate ships, Italy promises a completely different energy than our peaceful French Riviera interlude.


Watch Our Antibes Adventure %%fab-fa-youtube%%

Experience our week in Antibes through our YouTube videos:

Plan Your Own French Riviera Family Adventure

Ready to experience the magic of slow travel in southern France? Contact Lindsay at lindsay.clarkson@fora.travel for personalized family travel planning that focuses on authentic experiences over tourist checklists.