Taking the TGV from Paris to Antibes: A French Train Journey Gone Wrong (and Right)

After four days in Southampton, four in London, and four in Paris, we were ready for our next destination: Antibes on the French Riviera. What should have been a simple train booking turned into a lesson in European rail bureaucracy, but also delivered one of those perfect travel moments that make all the chaos worthwhile.

The Ticket Hunt at Marne-la-Vallée Chessy

The day before we planned to leave Paris, I took the RER out to Marne-la-Vallée Chessy (yes, the Disneyland Paris station) to sort out our train reservations. We had Eurail Global Passes, which meant we could ride most trains for "free," but the TGV high-speed trains require seat reservations that cost extra.

Standing at the ticket counter with my limited French and hopeful expression, I explained our situation to the agent. "I have a rail pass and we want to go to Antibes tomorrow."

Here's where things got interesting. The agent couldn't book us all the way through to Antibes. Instead, she sold me reservations for the TGV from Paris to Nîmes. For the remaining legs from Nîmes to Marseille and Marseille to Antibes, I'd have to wait until we arrived in Nîmes to make those reservations.

Not ideal when you're traveling with three kids and all your possessions, but this is Europe. Sometimes the system works in mysterious ways.

Travel Day Reality Check

The next morning came early. Travel days with kids require a different mindset than solo backpacking adventures. We'd learned to pack smart: individual snack bags for each girl, downloaded movies on iPads, portable chargers, and most importantly, lowered expectations.

The girls were still groggy when we loaded up our luggage and headed to the station. Eight hours of travel stretched ahead of us. Three trains, two transfers, and the hope that we could actually get seats on the later trains without advance reservations.

The TGV Experience

Our first train was the TGV 5026 from Marne-la-Vallée Chessy to Nîmes. High-speed rail in France doesn't mess around. These trains hit 320 km/h (200 mph) and barely feel like they're moving.

The seats were comfortable, we had free wifi, and the girls settled into their entertainment routine. I optimistically thought I might get some video editing done during the journey. That lasted about 30 minutes before I gave up and just started looking out the window.

When It Hits You

Somewhere between Lyon and Valence, something shifted. The French countryside rolled past at incredible speed. Vineyards, small villages with red tile roofs, rolling hills that looked like they belonged in a painting. The girls were content, Lindsay was reading, and I was listening to my "fall asleep on a train in Europe" playlist.

That's when it happened. You know that moment when you suddenly realize what you're doing? When the magnitude of your situation hits you? My friend Russ calls it the "it just hit me" moment, and every good trip has one.

Sitting there, watching France blur past the window, I felt tears starting. This was it. We were actually doing this crazy thing. Our three daughters were experiencing the world in a way most kids never will. We'd sold our house, left our normal life, and here we were on a high-speed train in France.

Sometimes the best moments sneak up on you.

The Philosophy Part

You hear people say you get 18 summers with your kids before they grow up and move on. I think that's bullshit. You get maybe five or six magical summers when the world still holds wonder, when daddy's still the coolest person they know, when a train ride feels like the greatest adventure ever.

Lily's 6, Cora's 5, Harper's 2. We're right in that sweet spot. We could have waited until they were older, until travel was "easier." But then we'd miss this exact version of them, this precise moment when everything is new and exciting.

The window for this kind of travel is shorter than people think.

Connection Chaos in Nîmes

The TGV pulled into Nîmes Pont du Gard station right on schedule. Now came the fun part: finding the ticket office to book our remaining journey with three tired kids in tow.

European train stations have a particular energy. Everyone knows where they're going except tourists like us. We found the reservation desk and managed to secure seats on the regional train to Marseille, then from Marseille to Antibes.

Two more trains. Two more opportunities for something to go wrong.

Old School Train Compartments

The train from Marseille to Antibes was a throwback. One of those classic European rail cars with compartments that seat six people facing each other. I hadn't been in one since my backpacking trip in 2005.

We had the entire compartment to ourselves, which was a relief. We stuffed our luggage into every available space and settled in for the final leg. Harper fell asleep against my shoulder. The girls quietly watched the Mediterranean coastline appear outside our windows.

These older trains move differently than the TGV. They sway and click along the tracks. The rhythm is hypnotic.

Arriving on the Riviera

Antibes appeared outside our window as the sun was setting. Mediterranean light has a quality you can't replicate anywhere else. Everything looks golden, softer somehow.

Our taxi driver was philosophical, asking if this was our first time in Antibes. When I mentioned I'd been here years ago in 2005, he smiled and said something in French, then translated: "Retour aux sources. It means 'back to the spring' - returning to your source." The French have a way with words that makes even taxi rides feel profound. By the time we reached our Airbnb, the girls were excited again despite the long day.

The Accommodation Reveal

Our place was perfect. Space for all of us, a washing machine (crucial after days of wearing the same clothes), and that distinctly European charm that makes vacation rentals feel special.

The girls immediately started exploring their new temporary home. Lindsay and I exchanged that look couples develop after years together. The look that says: "We actually pulled this off."

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Why We Do This

Travel days like this aren't always fun in the moment. Kids get cranky. Connections are stressful. Language barriers create confusion. But they're the price of admission for experiences you can't get any other way.

Sitting on that TGV, watching my daughters experience high-speed rail for the first time, seeing France unfold outside our window, I was reminded why we chose this life. These are the moments they'll remember. Not the Disney movies or the snacks or the iPad time, but the feeling of flying across a foreign country on a train.

That's worth eight hours of travel chaos any day.

Planning Your Own TGV Journey

If you're considering a similar trip, here's what we learned:

Book TGV reservations in advance when possible. Our last-minute approach worked but added stress.

Eurail passes cover the base fare but you'll pay extra for TGV seat reservations (usually 4-10 euros per person).

Pack smart for long travel days. Individual snack bags for kids, entertainment downloads, and realistic expectations.

Regional trains don't require reservations with a rail pass, but TGV and other high-speed services do.

Station transfers can be tight. Build in buffer time when planning connections.

The French rail system is efficient and comfortable. Even when things don't go according to plan, they usually work out. Sometimes the detours make the best stories anyway.

Ready to book your own French train adventure? Check out GetYourGuide for Eurail Global Passes to get started, or contact Lindsay at lindsay.clarkson@fora.travel for custom travel planning.

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